Water Heater Installation Checklist: Photo Proof and Handover Pack With AI

Coding Liquids tutorial cover featuring Sagnik Bhattacharya for Water Heater Installation Checklist: Photo Proof and Handover Pack With AI.
Coding Liquids tutorial cover featuring Sagnik Bhattacharya for Water Heater Installation Checklist: Photo Proof and Handover Pack With AI.

Cover the permit, the data plate, venting and combustion air (or the electrical supply), the temperature and pressure relief valve and its discharge pipe, expansion control and labelling, with a photo of each. AI then drafts a plain-English handover pack from those photos, but only the installer's own tests and signature make it true.

The photo file has two readers: an inspector or insurer who wants proof, and the customer who wants to know what to do if something drips. One set of photos can serve both, provided each shot is taken before the thing it shows is covered, and every number in the pack comes from the installer's test sheet instead of an AI reading of a picture.

Follow me on Instagram@sagnikteaches

The shots that prove the work, in the order you take them

Fourteen photos cover a standard replacement. The right-hand column shows where each one ends up in the customer's pack, because a photo that feeds nothing is clutter and a pack line with no photo is a claim without proof.

Connect on LinkedInSagnik Bhattacharya
#ShotIt must showFeeds this pack line
1Old unit and its data plateModel, serial, capacity, fuel, location, old vent and shutoffsWhat was replaced
2PermitNumber and job address legible, where a permit is requiredPaperwork
3Static water pressureA gauge on a tap with the reading visibleSettings (and the expansion tank figure)
4New unit's data plateModel, serial, capacity, input ratingWhat was installed, warranty registration
5Cold inlet assemblyShutoff, any check or pressure-reducing valve, tank positionWhere things are
6Expansion tank gaugePre-charge reading, taken with the system depressurisedCare schedule
7Relief valve and discharge pipeThe valve, the whole pipe and its open end near the drainSafety
8Venting, before coveringJoints, supports, slope and the outside terminationPaperwork
9Air supply and clearances, or the electrical disconnectSpace around the unit, or wiring and isolator, plus the carbon monoxide alarm where one is requiredSafety
10Gas connectionShutoff, union, sediment trap, and the leak test in progressWhere things are
11Drain pan and drainPan in place and piped to a drainSafety
12Thermostat and hot tapThe setting, and a thermometer reading at the nearest hot tapSettings
13Installer's labelDate, company, phone, shutoff locationsWho to call
14Finished installationWide shot, plus any non-standard itemCover page

Take shots 5 to 10 before insulation, boxing-in or a cover goes over them, because an inspector cannot ask for a photo of something that is now behind plasterboard. If a shot can't be taken, say why in the test sheet rather than leaving a gap.

Subscribe on YouTube@sagnikteaches

The tests only the installer can record

A photo can show a gauge. It cannot show that a joint is tight, that gas is not escaping or that the tank is full. Those facts come from the installer doing a test and writing the result down, with a time and initials. AI is kept out of this list on purpose.

  • Static water pressure in psi, before the new unit is connected. It decides the expansion tank setting.
  • Expansion tank pre-charge in psi, read with the system depressurised.
  • Tank full and air purged before gas or power goes on. One manufacturer's manual says never to use the heater unless it is completely full, and that water must flow from a hot tap before the gas is turned on.
  • Gas leak test on every connection: the method (soap solution or detector), the result and the time.
  • Combustion and venting checks that the manual or your local rules require, with the instrument reading where there is one.
  • Relief valve discharge confirmed open, unobstructed and ending where the manual says.
  • Leak check at every joint after the unit has heated up.
  • Thermostat setting and the measured hot-tap temperature, with the thermometer used.
  • Carbon monoxide alarm present and working, where the rules or the manual call for one, with a photo of the alarm.

Here is a filled-in test sheet for a gas power-vent unit, in the plain format an assistant can read. The figures are illustrative.

Job: [job number]   Installer: [initials]   Date: [date]
Static pressure: 62 psi (tap gauge, 08:55)
Expansion tank: 2-gal, pre-charge set to 62 psi (system depressurised, 10:20)
Tank filled and air purged: yes, steady flow at hot tap before gas on (11:05)
Gas leak test: soap solution, all joints, no bubbles (11:10)
Venting: PVC run supported, termination clear; manual checks done
Relief valve: discharge pipe open, ends 4 in above floor drain
Thermostat: set to [value]; hot tap measured [value] with probe thermometer (12:20)
CO alarm: present, tested, photo 9
Leak check after heat-up: dry at all joints (12:45)
The Complete Excel Course with AI Integration thumbnail

The Complete Excel Course with AI Integration

From formulas and pivot tables to Power Query, DAX, VBA and AI with Copilot, ChatGPT and Claude — hands-on from the first lesson.

By Sagnik Bhattacharya and Virginia Thorn, Primetime Emmy Award winner

Buy now

What a manufacturer's own pre-start checklist looks like

If you want to see how a maker structures the same idea, one power-vent gas manual ends its installation section with a tick-box list in five groups. Location: indoors, protected from freezing, clearances kept, a metal drain pan piped to a drain. Gas supply: a shutoff valve, a union and a dirt leg on the line, approved joint compound, and every connection checked with a soap-and-water solution. Vent pipe: approved material, acceptable size, length and number of elbows, horizontal runs pitched upward away from the heater, unobstructed, supported, with the condensate drain connected as required. Water piping: the relief valve fitted with a discharge line run to an open drain, no leaks, the heater completely filled, and pressure build-up precautions fitted for a closed system. Electrical: a supply that is preferably dedicated, correct polarity, grounded.

Your unit's own manual will differ in the details and sometimes in the order, which is the reason to use the manual for the model on site and treat the photo list as the evidence layer on top of it. Brand, fuel and vent type all change the checklist.

The two photos an inspector looks for: relief valve and expansion

The relief valve discharge, end to end

The manual quoted above lays out the discharge pipe rules in a way that translates directly into one photo. The pipe must not be smaller than the valve outlet or contain a reducing coupling. It must not be capped, blocked or plugged, and it must have no valve between the relief valve and the open end. It must end within 6 in above a floor drain or outside the building, and it must be installed so that the valve and the pipe drain completely. The same manual warns that more than 30 ft of pipe or more than four elbows can restrict the discharge, and recommends operating the valve by hand at least once a year. Another manufacturer's manual gives twice a year, so write the interval from your unit's own manual into the pack instead of choosing one.

One photo can prove most of that: take it from far enough back to show the valve, the pipe run and the open end near the drain in a single frame, with a second close-up of the end. The caption should state what the photo proves in plain words, such as "Relief valve discharge, open end 4 in above floor drain, no valve or cap".

Expansion: why the pre-charge number matters

When a water supply has a check valve or backflow preventer, heated water has nowhere to go and pressure climbs. The manual says a properly sized thermal expansion tank should be fitted on all closed systems. It adds that pressure damage in a closed system without a tank is excluded from the warranty and that the relief valve is not meant to relieve expansion all day. Zurn's tank instructions give the setting rule: adjust the tank's air pre-charge to equal the line pressure, not to exceed 80 psi (about 5.5 bar), and give 55 psi as the worked case. They say to open a tap first to remove pressure, then check with a standard tyre gauge. They also say the tank sits on the cold supply between the heater and the check valve, that supply pressure above 80 psi needs a pressure-reducing valve, and that the pre-charge should be checked every year.

That is why the static pressure photo (shot 3) and the pre-charge photo (shot 6) belong together. If the home reads 62 psi and the tank was left at its factory setting, say 40 psi, the tank is under-charged and the photo shows it. Two numbers on one test sheet are enough for an inspector, a warranty desk or the installer a year later to see that the tank was set to the supply.

A 50-gallon gas replacement, from first photo to signed handover

Consider an illustrative job: a 50-gallon (about 190-litre) gas storage unit replaced with a power-vent model in a home with a backflow preventer on the supply. The installer arrives at 08:30 and takes shots 1 and 2 before touching anything. Static pressure reads 62 psi (about 4.3 bar) at 08:55 (shot 3). The old unit is drained and removed, the new one set in a metal drain pan, the cold inlet assembled with a 2-gallon (about 7.5-litre) expansion tank and the vent run laid, with shots 4, 5 and 8 taken as each stage is exposed.

The tank's pre-charge is set from 40 to 62 psi with the system depressurised and photographed at 10:20 (shot 6). The heater is filled and purged until hot taps run steadily, the gas joints are soap-tested at 11:10 (shot 10), and the relief pipe ends 4 in above the floor drain (shot 7). The thermostat setting and a hot-tap reading go on the test sheet at 12:20, and the installer's label goes on the unit (shot 13). Fourteen photos and the sheet are in the job file by 13:00.

Without a drafting step, writing the customer's handover from those fourteen photos takes this installer about 35 minutes, usually that evening. With one, the installer reads and corrects a draft in about 12 minutes before leaving the site. At eight installs a week that is 8 × 23 = 184 minutes, a little over three hours. Those timings are assumptions for the illustration; time your own for a fortnight before you promise anyone a saving.

From photos to a handover pack the customer can use

The drafting step takes three inputs: the installer's test sheet as text, a one-line caption for each photo, and the relevant pages of the unit's manual. Photos can be attached too, but the text inputs carry the facts. The prompt below forbids two things that assistants do by habit: filling gaps with plausible numbers, and declaring the job compliant.

Draft a customer handover pack for a water heater installation.
Inputs: the installer's test sheet, the photo captions and the manual extract below.
Use only facts that appear in those three inputs. If a fact is missing, write [installer to confirm].
Never write that the installation passed, complies with any code or is safe. Report only what the test sheet records.
Plain English, short sentences, no jargon without a one-line explanation.
Sections: What was installed; Where things are; Settings; Care schedule (copy intervals from the manual); If something looks wrong; Who to call.

An illustrative excerpt of a good draft:

What was installed: A [brand] 50-gallon gas water heater, model [model], serial [serial], fitted on [date].
Where things are: The cold water shutoff is on the pipe above the unit (photo 5). The gas shutoff is on the pipe beside it (photo 10). The pipe from the safety valve ends 4 in above the floor drain. Please do not cap or block it.
Settings: The thermostat is set to [value]. The installer measured [value] at the kitchen tap on the day.
Care schedule: Check the expansion tank's air pressure once a year with the water pressure released. Operate the safety valve and flush the tank at the intervals in the manual: [installer to confirm].
If something looks wrong: If you smell gas, leave the building and call the gas emergency number from outside. If water drips from the safety valve pipe more than occasionally, call us.

Now the editing. This is where the installer earns the signature, and the same four slips recur.

  • A number read from a photo. The draft says the tank pressure is 60 psi, read from a slightly blurred gauge photo. The test sheet says 62. The sheet wins, and the instruction should say so.
  • A measurement turned into a different one. The draft says the pipe ends "5 in above the drain" because that looked right in the frame. The installer measured 4. Cut any measurement the test sheet does not hold.
  • A compliance claim. The draft adds "installed to meet all local requirements". Delete it. The evidence is the inspection record or the installer's own signed statement, not a sentence in a customer pack.
  • A maintenance interval from nowhere. The draft says "flush every six months". The manual says whatever it says, so copy from the manual or leave the line as [installer to confirm].

The finished pack goes to the customer with the photos that support it: shutoffs, the relief pipe, the data plate and the thermostat. Keep the full fourteen-photo set in the job file. For another trade that does the same dance, the boiler installation checklist shows how an installer-signed record and AI-sorted photos fit together, and the CCTV handover pack shows the customer-facing side for a different install.

What the pack must never claim

  • That the installation "passed", is "to code" or is "safe". Only an inspection or the installer's signed statement can say that.
  • That a joint is leak-free or a gas connection is sound. Those are test results with a time attached.
  • A temperature or a pressure that is not on the test sheet.
  • Warranty terms, durations or conditions. Point to the manufacturer's registration steps and the warranty document, and leave the terms to them.
  • Anything about insurance, cost or what a failure would be covered by.

It also helps to keep the scald warning in the pack in the manufacturer's own terms. One manual states that water over 125°F can cause severe burns instantly, that children, older people and disabled people are at the highest risk, and that temperature limiting devices such as mixing valves must be installed where codes require them. It advises using the lowest setting that satisfies the household's hot water needs. Record the setting and the measured tap temperature, tell the customer in plain words, and leave the choice of setting to the installer and customer working from the manual and local rules.

How the checklist changes with the type of unit

The fourteen shots above fit a gas storage unit. Other types swap a few shots and tests, and the manual for the model on site decides the detail.

Unit typeExtra or different photoExtra or different test
Gas storage, natural draftFlue and draught hood, air supply openingsDraught and spillage checks as the manual requires
Gas power-vent or direct-ventVent material, joints, supports and termination; condensate drain if the unit produces anyBlower power supply, vent run length and elbows against the manual
Electric storageBreaker and wire size against the data plate, isolator, element accessTank full before power goes on, supply checks
Heat pump water heaterClearances, air path and condensate drainCondensate flow and the manual's start-up steps
TanklessIsolation valves, vent, gas line and condensateFlow and temperature at the farthest tap

A tankless unit holds little water, so its relief and expansion arrangements differ from a storage tank's, and a heat pump unit's manual sets its own relief-valve, expansion and condensate instructions. Do not copy the 62 psi example onto either without checking. The test sheet should say "per manual" with the page reference and then record whatever the manual asks for.

Where the unit replaces a leaking tank, say so in the pack. A failed tank is the usual reason for the job, and the customer may need the record if there was water damage. If it did cause damage, the restoration job-file checklist shows what the restorer will record on the other side. If you also write the quote, plumbing proposals for water heaters and repipes covers that step.

Labelling photos so they can be found in a year

A photo file is only as useful as the speed with which someone finds shot 7 for one job. Fix a naming rule and stick to it: job number, shot number, subject and date, as in J1042_07_relief-discharge-end_2026-11-03.jpg. A job-photo app that supports checklists does this for you. CompanyCam, for example, lists standardised checklists on its Crew plan, which its pricing page showed at $129 a month billed annually with three users included. Check the plan comparison before you buy, since the page's AI allowance reads differently in its table and in its FAQ. A shared folder with the naming rule works too if everybody follows it.

Captions do the rest. An assistant can draft them from the photos, and the installer's job is to correct them: the pattern is "what it shows, what it proves". "Cold inlet: shutoff valve, check valve, expansion tank on the cold side" is a caption. "Plumbing photo 5" is not. For a simpler version of the same routine on a small job, photo-proof invoices for gutter cleaning shows how little structure you need.

Mistakes found in water heater photo files

  1. The pipe end is missing. There is a photo of the relief valve and none of where the discharge pipe ends, which is the part an inspector asks about.
  2. Plates photographed at an angle. The serial number is unreadable, so warranty registration stalls. Take it straight on, with a torch.
  3. Gauges with no context. A pressure reading in a close-up that does not show which tap it is on. Include the fitting in the frame.
  4. Test results typed in the evening. The times on the sheet are guesses. Write them on the job, even on paper, and photograph the paper.
  5. A pack written a week late. Nobody can correct a draft from memory seven days on. Review it before leaving the site.

The method is the same whatever the unit: shoot what proves it, record what only you can test, let the assistant do the typing, and sign only what you checked.

Further reads

Sources: manufacturer installation manuals for gas power-vent water heaters (pre-start checklist, relief valve discharge, thermal expansion, scald warnings, fill procedure); Zurn XT thermal expansion tank instructions; CompanyCam pricing page. Checked November 2026.

Want install photos and handover packs to run themselves?

On a 1:1 call we can look at one recent install, list the photos and tests your files lack, and set up the drafting step so the installer only reviews and signs.

Book a 1:1 call with me